memories of 'Lucky,' 'The Duke' and Yakima Canutt...
'A man deserves a second chance,
but keep an eye on him.'
John Wayne
"LUCKY" SEEMED UNEASY ABOUT THE ROLE...
'A man deserves a second chance,
but keep an eye on him.'
John Wayne
"LUCKY" SEEMED UNEASY ABOUT THE ROLE...
WRITERS AND ARTISTS IN POLITICS. 'WRITERS and artists like you should refuse to take part in the public life of their country ' he began. 'Particularly when it comes to politics. Even more so if they're god damned Democrats!' He then added with a slight smile, 'Your buddy Teddy Kennedy will never get elected President because of Chappaquiddick. He should've learned to keep his pecker in his pants.' The somewhat good-natured rant had begun after I had informed him that I was backing Ted Kennedy for the Presidential Election in 1980. He happened to be a former Marine and 'Hell's Angel,' recently divorced, well-read, a man with one leg, and political advisor to Katherine Whitmire the Mayor of Houston. He also was the Committee Chairman for 'The Elect Ronald Regan Presidential Committee.' We had first met at a singles club in Houston called The Leisure Tree, became good friends, and enjoyed the bicker and squabble of political argument since he was an avid Republican and I was an equally rabid Democrat. He was ten-years older than I was, looked like a surly Santa Claus with a gruff twinkle in his eye...
...And his name was Francis "Lucky" McCreary.
It was dusk in Zihatanejo, Mexico on a June evening in 1979, and we were at a restaurant called Patys Marimar on La Ropa Beach, which lay at the edge of the beach itself, while mariachis played songs of love, as we watched the glistening tanned bodies running rapidly to their hotels in the frail afternoon rain. The aroma of the Mexican evening rose around us. Beans were frying and fish baking in the restaurant oven stoves, and beyond all of this, stretching to the hard blue line of the horizon, there was the sea, the vast and placid Pacific. For centuries Zihatanejo had been a fishing village, a few huts thatched with palms dozing along the shore of the great natural harbor called the Casta Grande. It never became a major port, because the merchants of Mexico preferred to greet their Manila galleons in Acapulco, 145 miles northwest and for years no roads connected the tiny village to the large cities of the interior; mules labored for weeks to travel the 483 kilometers to Mexico City, mountainous miles beyond reach. Then, throughout the 1950's and into the 1960' everything slowly changed. Along with a town called Ixtapa, Zihatanejo became a tourist attraction, the movie star John Wayne became a regular visitor, and the modern day Zihatanejo was born.
On our walk earlier in the day from our hotel to the beach, the street was crowded with a mixture of tourists and Mexican families. The Americans looked pink and awkward. The Mexicans were friendly, even sweet, but they were more concerned with children than with visitors. Here, as almost everywhere I had been in Mexico, a visitor senses a relaxed manner among the Mexicans. Among workers and visitors, no one felt the seething hostility that had begun to rear its head, particularly in Acapulco, where we had been the week before. "Lucky" and I had both been here several times in recent years. He loved Zihatanejo and so did I. We were staying at the La Casa Que Canta Hotel overlooking Zihatanejo Bay and had booked the same suite of rooms in which John Wayne had once stayed. "Lucky" had insisted that we stay there too.
The suite was aptly named "The Duke Suite" and the stairs inside led to an open, mahogany wooden floor with a bar and couches and a cool breeze off the ocean. There were photographs of Wayne, posters of Island in the Sky and True Grit and the Quiet Man, and other reminders of the life once lived here. Wayne had last been in Zihatanejo five-years before. 'He was the greatest single drinker I ever saw,' said a bartender at The Flophouse Bar, who claimed to have known Wayne rather well. 'He loved tequila and never got drunk.' He then looked at "Lucky" for what seemed to be a very long time and added, 'You were with Wayne once when he came to Zihatanejo from Newport Beach on his mine-sweeper 'The Wild Goose.' Here at 'The Flophouse, I mean?' And "Lucky" replied, 'I was.' I felt like a child when I asked, 'You knew 'The Duke'?' And he replied with a smile, 'I did.'
The following morning we walked down a long dusty road toward 'Chez Arnaldo Beach' to see the home that Wayne had built when he hauled his aging bones to Zihatanejo for the last time. He had built the house near a small stand of palm trees, 3 miles from the town's center. It could be reached only from the sea or the small dirt road upon which we were walking. Today few people could tell you its location. A caretaker greeted us after "Lucky" had made arrangements with the hotel staff at the La Casa Que Canta Hotel for the visit, specific directions had been written for us, and a caretaker was there to greet us.
As we were making our way to the top floor of the home, I was recalling that conversation with the bartender the night before and thought it best not to ask "Lucky" how well he had known Wayne until he was ready to tell me. The bedroom was now called "The Sagebrush Room." I found a bookcase against the wall, and among weathered books of Agatha Christie was a copy of Arthur Conan Doyle's 'SirNigel', with a note from Agatha Christie to Wayne telling him that he would enjoy the read and wishing him a Happy Holiday Season, dated December 17, 1966 - a remnant of some lost Christmas. The place was clean and bright and pleasant. According to those in town who knew him best, this is where Wayne came to escape his celebrity. Here, where there were now tasteful wicker chairs and fresh-cut flowers, he would walk out to the balcony and look out over the town to the sea while he puffed away on his Camel cigarettes. Those who knew him said that as he aged he knew that he had never been considered a serious actor, transformed by time into a cartoon figure of the western hero, he had begun to regret that aspect of his life even with his Oscar win as Best Actor for the movie 'True Grit' in 1969, 17 years after his only other nomination.
...And his name was Francis "Lucky" McCreary.
It was dusk in Zihatanejo, Mexico on a June evening in 1979, and we were at a restaurant called Patys Marimar on La Ropa Beach, which lay at the edge of the beach itself, while mariachis played songs of love, as we watched the glistening tanned bodies running rapidly to their hotels in the frail afternoon rain. The aroma of the Mexican evening rose around us. Beans were frying and fish baking in the restaurant oven stoves, and beyond all of this, stretching to the hard blue line of the horizon, there was the sea, the vast and placid Pacific. For centuries Zihatanejo had been a fishing village, a few huts thatched with palms dozing along the shore of the great natural harbor called the Casta Grande. It never became a major port, because the merchants of Mexico preferred to greet their Manila galleons in Acapulco, 145 miles northwest and for years no roads connected the tiny village to the large cities of the interior; mules labored for weeks to travel the 483 kilometers to Mexico City, mountainous miles beyond reach. Then, throughout the 1950's and into the 1960' everything slowly changed. Along with a town called Ixtapa, Zihatanejo became a tourist attraction, the movie star John Wayne became a regular visitor, and the modern day Zihatanejo was born.
On our walk earlier in the day from our hotel to the beach, the street was crowded with a mixture of tourists and Mexican families. The Americans looked pink and awkward. The Mexicans were friendly, even sweet, but they were more concerned with children than with visitors. Here, as almost everywhere I had been in Mexico, a visitor senses a relaxed manner among the Mexicans. Among workers and visitors, no one felt the seething hostility that had begun to rear its head, particularly in Acapulco, where we had been the week before. "Lucky" and I had both been here several times in recent years. He loved Zihatanejo and so did I. We were staying at the La Casa Que Canta Hotel overlooking Zihatanejo Bay and had booked the same suite of rooms in which John Wayne had once stayed. "Lucky" had insisted that we stay there too.
The suite was aptly named "The Duke Suite" and the stairs inside led to an open, mahogany wooden floor with a bar and couches and a cool breeze off the ocean. There were photographs of Wayne, posters of Island in the Sky and True Grit and the Quiet Man, and other reminders of the life once lived here. Wayne had last been in Zihatanejo five-years before. 'He was the greatest single drinker I ever saw,' said a bartender at The Flophouse Bar, who claimed to have known Wayne rather well. 'He loved tequila and never got drunk.' He then looked at "Lucky" for what seemed to be a very long time and added, 'You were with Wayne once when he came to Zihatanejo from Newport Beach on his mine-sweeper 'The Wild Goose.' Here at 'The Flophouse, I mean?' And "Lucky" replied, 'I was.' I felt like a child when I asked, 'You knew 'The Duke'?' And he replied with a smile, 'I did.'
The following morning we walked down a long dusty road toward 'Chez Arnaldo Beach' to see the home that Wayne had built when he hauled his aging bones to Zihatanejo for the last time. He had built the house near a small stand of palm trees, 3 miles from the town's center. It could be reached only from the sea or the small dirt road upon which we were walking. Today few people could tell you its location. A caretaker greeted us after "Lucky" had made arrangements with the hotel staff at the La Casa Que Canta Hotel for the visit, specific directions had been written for us, and a caretaker was there to greet us.
As we were making our way to the top floor of the home, I was recalling that conversation with the bartender the night before and thought it best not to ask "Lucky" how well he had known Wayne until he was ready to tell me. The bedroom was now called "The Sagebrush Room." I found a bookcase against the wall, and among weathered books of Agatha Christie was a copy of Arthur Conan Doyle's 'SirNigel', with a note from Agatha Christie to Wayne telling him that he would enjoy the read and wishing him a Happy Holiday Season, dated December 17, 1966 - a remnant of some lost Christmas. The place was clean and bright and pleasant. According to those in town who knew him best, this is where Wayne came to escape his celebrity. Here, where there were now tasteful wicker chairs and fresh-cut flowers, he would walk out to the balcony and look out over the town to the sea while he puffed away on his Camel cigarettes. Those who knew him said that as he aged he knew that he had never been considered a serious actor, transformed by time into a cartoon figure of the western hero, he had begun to regret that aspect of his life even with his Oscar win as Best Actor for the movie 'True Grit' in 1969, 17 years after his only other nomination.
When I heard "Lucky's" voice behind me, I turned to look at him as he said: 'I know you've been wondering about me and Wayne. I've known 'The Duke' since 1960 when he was in Brackettville, Texas shooting and directing the movie 'The Alamo.' The movie was shot on the ranch owned by Jim Shannan, who happened to be my uncle; so Wayne give me a bit part even though he was aware that I was a 'Hell's Angel. Two weeks after I was hired, I lost my leg in a motorcycle accident when I was drunk and slammed into a truck. By then, Wayne and I had shared more than a couple of drinks in several Brackettville bars where we played chess and he always won. He liked me and I liked him. He paid for my hospital stay and operation. Uncle Jim refused to do so because he didn't much like the fact that I'd been drinking at the time of the accident nor was he fond of the Hell's Angels stuff.'
His feeling were clearly shared by others who had known him. On each day more and more Zihatanejo residents told their own stories about "The Duke." 'He was the nicest man in the world,' said a brown-skinned man named Marcos. 'I come home in the morning from taking him on horseback rides. I give people rides. They pay me. Then I come home. With him, I always came home with more money than I could earn in a month, he gave me cowboy boots and a western shirt and a Stetson hat, and always acted like I was his equal. He was a man with a kind heart.'
As we were walking the beach early one evening, "Lucky" said, 'It was several years after my accident when Wayne called me and asked me since I was a former Marine if I'd like to do another shoot as an extra on a movie he was directing called 'The Green Berets' in 1968 with David Janssen and Jim Hutton. He told me the movie was about Viet Nam and that there would be a character with one leg who never spoke a single word. I agreed and the next thing I knew I was in Fort Benning, Georgia shooting the movie....One evening, we went together to a place called 'Bello's Martini and Cigar Bar' and I asked him why he had taken me under his wing. His reply was simple: 'All of us are a mixture of some good and some not so good,' he said. 'In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things...we should refrain from making judgement because the fella looks like he's a real SOB and give him a chance to prove you're wrong.' "Lucky" paused for a moment, then said: 'There is someone I'd like you to meet. He's a former bronco rider and movie stuntman named Yakima Canutt.'
The following afternoon, I found myself at a place called Coconuts near the beach, celebrating 'Happy Hour' with "Lucky" and Enos Edward Yakima Canutt, who had known John Wayne since 1932 when Wayne had hired him to do his stunts in a movie by the name of The Shadow of the Eagle. After an introduction by "Lucky," the drinks began to flow and the conversation began. It turned out that Yakima, now 80 years-of-age, was a man who seemed taller than he actually was, with a face which looked as if it had been etched in granite. He had won the title at the age of 17 as 'The World's Best Bronco Buster,' trained Charlton Heston and Steven Boyd for the famous chariot ride in the movie 'Ben-Hur,' and won an honorary Academy Award in 1967 for his contributions to the movie industry.
Down through the years had come to Zihatanejo with John Wayne on a regular basis.
His only comment about Heston was, 'The fucker was a pious prick!'
He did, however, love John Wayne.
He said that in 1932 when the two of them had first met both of them were working for Monogram Pictures, and the first words out of Wayne's mouth were, 'I've always followed my father's advice: he told me to always keep my word and, second, to never insult anybody intentionally. If I insult you, you can be god damned sure I mean it. And third, he told me never to go around looking for trouble.' If you're OK with all of that, I think we're gonna be friends...And we were and are...As a natter-of-fact, the two-of-us have been coming to Zihatanejo since the mid-5o's. Played chess here at this very table, got drunk, laughed, and told dirty jokes.' I told him that my Dad lived in Winerset , Iowa the town in which Wayne had been born, knew Wayne when they were kids, back when his name was Marion Robert Morrison. And he replied, 'You're dad was a lucky guy.'
What none of us mentioned was this: Wayne was now in the UCLA Medical Center being treated for another bout of cancer, this time it was cancer of the stomach. We departed the place called Coconuts at around midnight on June 10th of 1979, and on the morning of June 11th heard the news that John Wayne had died.
The entire town of Zihatanejo was in mourning, black was worn by men and women and children, the Cathedral door was draped in black, and the flagpole's flag stood at half-mast, waving slowly in the wind, as "Lucky" and Yakima entered through the cathedral door and two men who had known and loved him bent down at the front of the altar to give John Wayne a final farewell. They both walked silently back onto the street, bid me a farewell, and flew out of Zihatanejo to attend his funeral and burial at Memorial Park Cemetery in Carona del Mar, West Port Beach. Etched on his tombstone were these words: 'Feo Fuerte y Formal' in Spanish, when translated to English meant: 'He was ugly, strong, and dignified.'
In October of that year, my Father died, the man who I most adored in my entire life, one who I forever will pay tribute to in my heart, mind, body and and soul...
...By 1986 both "Lucky" and Yakima had passed-away, as well...
...I had known 3 men who once knew John Wayne...
...My wish is that I had been one of them...
...And although I never met him...
..I have yet to forget his words: 'Courage is about being scared to death but saddling up anyway...' as well as: 'Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes to us very clean. It's perfect when it arrives, and puts itself in our hands. It hopes that we've learned something from yesterday...'
...And it is my hope that I have done all of that in some minor way...